April 15, 2015
We’re big fans of Marc Jacobs Beauty, and each season’s launches continue to enthral us with the myriad of gorgeous shades, sleek packaging and makeup that’s actually really good quality (try the Highliner Gel Crayon if you want a gel liner with pigment and smoothness like you’ve never seen before). We managed to catch the brand’s Global Makeup Artist Gilbert Soliz while he was in town recently for the Sephora press day, and we bugged him with questions about trends for the next season, how on earth to get contouring right, and the best ways to wear crazy bright eyeliner. Lucky for us, he had much wisdom to share.
What trends do you see coming up for Fall/Winter?
Strong, bold lips – dark berries and bold, striking mouths. We saw this at the Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter ready-to-wear show, and I think going from summer into fall, it’s still going to be a big focus on lips. Plums, berries, berries mixed with reds: it’s the deeper, stronger shades we’ll see a lot of.
Contouring – I thought that it was going to be a trend that was going to stop, but it looks like it’s still full steam and still going strong. Brows seems like another strong category – big, bold brows. I think that’s what Marc looks for when he does casting, he feels that a bold brow is really youthful, and he loves a strong brow. Also, shimmery metallics on the eye, bright neons on the lip, and cheeks, like really bright, fluorescent colour.
Neons even for Fall/Winter? We thought colours would become a bit more subdued then.
It’s not a strong colour. The colours look neon but when you put it on, they’re actually really wearable. At first glance, you might think “Oh wow, I’m not going to be able to wear this”. But when you put it on, it has a very subdued, very natural effect.
Lots of people get intimidated by contouring. Any tips for how to make it simpler?
I would say opt for a powder formula. Powders tend to be a bit more forgiving. Stick with a light/dark palette, you really don’t have to go with a palette that has a lot of different options – that’s a bit more artistry-driven. For the consumer, someone who’s intrigued by the trend, you place the lighter shade on all the high points of the face, and you place the darker ones where the bone structure naturally recedes. And of course, using a brush that’s designed to help sculpt will help let the colour fall into the place naturally. I would say map out your face. Use your hands to feel where your natural bone structure is, to help best define your features.
Tell us which are your favourites among the recent Marc Jacobs Beauty launches.
The Le Marc Lip Creme in Kiss Kiss Bang Bang. I love a neutral mouth, and it’s like your lip, but better. I also love a colour called “Blow”, a beautiful shade if you want to introduce yourself to a dark lip. “Infamous” is a pinky sort of mauve, another essential within my kit.
I love the idea of using a matte lip liner to fill in the entire lip, I think that’s another thing that a lot of women are doing globally. There are a lot of socialites out there now who are over-drawing to give the illusion of a more voluminous lip, and you can do that using lip liner. I love this idea that you choose a colour closest to your lip tone, and you sculpt and reshape the lip. It’s a really modern way of lining the lips, as opposed to choosing a lip liner that matches the lipstick.
The new Highliners come in really bright shades that might be a bit scary for some women. How would you incorporate them into everyday looks?
With the bright trendy shades for summer, I’ll give you two ways to wear them. One, you can warm them up on the back of your hand, and then use your finger or a brush and use it as an eyeshadow base. So a very sheer wash of colour is a really fun way to wear a bright shade. Secondly, you can layer. Take a black or dark brown and line your eyes like you traditionally would, then take your fun neon or pop of colour, and do a double wing – that’s another really fun way to wear bright colour. Or you can even do one shade on top, one shade on bottom if you’re feeling adventurous, but I think the important thing is to ground your look with black or dark brown. If you wear them alone, it’s cool, electric sort of in a youthful way, but for the neutral, everyday type of woman, I would say pair it with a dark colour or black.
Is full-coverage foundation ever going to become a thing?
From an artistry standpoint, because we work on models – women who have beautiful skin – we use a lighter touch, and it’s not so much about coverage. But the consumer loves makeup. They love coverage, they love high intensity, they love full pigments, so yes. The consumer loves full coverage.
So true. I’m not really into the whole “no makeup” makeup trend, I like my foundation to be more visible.
The whole “no makeup” thing, it stems from the models just being perfect. So there’s really no use for a heavy foundation. Plus we want the girls to look effortless and natural, unless you’re doing a couture show or something that requires a look. But for the everyday woman, they have flaws. We have blemishes. We have sun damage. We have freckles. So we need coverage. But I think what’s amazing is that the formulas, they’re becoming more refined. We’ve come a long way from the old thick formulas.
The Marc Jacobs Beauty Spring 15 collection is available from 16 April, and the Summer 15 collection is available from 15 June, all at Sephora stores. marcjacobsbeauty.com