November 2, 2015
Jared Bailey definitely knows brows. As Benefit Cosmetics’ International Spokesperson, Global Services, he has spent a good number of years flying all around the world working with Benefit teams all over the world, and doing the brows of innumerable big name-clients and regular girls.
We took the chance to quiz him on brow basics when he made a stop in Singapore recently (we couldn’t stop admiring his perfect brows during the interview), and here are the nuggets of brow wisdom we picked up from him.
The era of Cara Delevingne brows has pretty much ended.
“(People) wanted those big, oversized brows, but now things are starting to take a little bit more of a shift. It’s becoming a bit more of a natural brow shape – that’s what we’re seeing people really going after. There’re no hard lines or hard angles, but very fluid lines. Just a really natural, effortlessly chic look.”
Your everyday brow look can take just 45 seconds to do.
“If you need better brows in 45 seconds, you take the micro wand of the Gimme Brow, start at the ends, and comb from the back to the front. Then, you re-dip the wand, and style it from the front of the brow, to the arch, all the way to the end. This is to fill it in, and to set the shape. It literally takes less than 30 seconds to do this, because you’re just swiping it, and then styling it.
Gimme Brow, $39
Then, you want to follow up with High Brow, because this is what is going to give you that nice, open, fresh look. You just want to dot it on along the browbone, then pat it – it’s not a traditional brow highlighter. This one has a linen pink colour, so it’s suitable for multiple skin tones. It’s really easy to use. Even for the most basic brow novice, it takes 45 seconds, and you’re done.”
High Brow, $37
Brow mapping is key to getting nice brows.
“There are three points to a brow, and we call it brow mapping. We actually map out your face, which starts to really contour the face. We mark out three points: the start, the arch, and the end.
We go straight up from the dimple of the nose, and it tells you exactly where your brows should start. So we do that on both sides, and it starts to create a slimming effect on the nose. Just like that highlighting trick where you contour both sides, and at the bridge – this does the same thing with your brows, it really starts to slim that area.
Then we look for the arch. We go from the outer portion, across the centre of the iris, and then it’ll point directly to where your brow is the highest. So we mark that point too. Now when we’re shaping, we shape from the start to the arch, not to give it a hard angle, but to really open up the eye and to give it a lift.
Now the third point is going to be from the outer corner of the nose, across the outer corner of the eye, and it’ll point to where your brow should end. This can really start to transform the face, so we wax from the arch to the end. And what that does is, let’s say you have a really round face, when we make this brow mapping measurement the area from the arch to the end tends to be longer, which tends to slim the face. So it creates an illusion of more of an oval face because it starts to block out the different portions, so you get a longer, more oval face shape. It’s a bit more ideal.”
It’s so important to have your brows done when you’re sitting up, not leaning back or lying down.
“When you go get threaded, a lot of times you’re leaning back, and you have to hold and stretch (your skin) and they pull, they tweeze… and they’re creating a shape kind of blindly. A lot of places you go to get tweezed or waxed, they have you lay down on a bed. Have you taken a picture of yourself lying down on a couch? Or a bed? Your face stretches. Gravity exists. And we knew that. And that’s why we do brows sitting up. So we’re giving you the best possible shape for your most natural look.”
When you do your brows at Benefit, rest assured your face shape will be carefully taken into consideration.
“Typically, if you have a round face, longer ends kind of slim down the face. For the longer faces, you see shorter areas between the arch and the end, which kinds of fills it out.
People with heart-shaped faces, we want to keep the lines really smooth and fluid, and that’s really important when you’re filling it in, to not do too high a peak. Again, we look for that point in brow mapping, because heart-shaped faces generally have harder edges, more severe cheekbones… everything about it is a little bit harder. For a square face, we make sure we look for the right area for the arch, because we want to bring it up as high as possible, as it can start to elongate the face. And that’s what we want to do with a square face, is make it a bit longer.”
Whatever you do, don’t fight Mother Nature. Or leave your brows bare when you have a full face of makeup on.
“I think that the thing that bothers me the most, is when women really try to fight Mother Nature too hard. We all cheat Mother Nature, that’s why we put on makeup, that’s why we shape our brows… but there’s a difference between cheating it, and fighting it.
So you see people who out in a lot of effort to look good, and dress well, and put on makeup. And then, to their brows, they do nothing at all… it kills me. When I look at them, I’m doing their brows in my head, that’s the first thing I do. That’s probably my biggest pet peeve, when they do absolutely nothing. Or, the opposite of that. When they’ve done everything. I call it ‘twazy’, which is like crazy, and tweezed beyond recognition. You don’t even know they’re eyebrows anymore, you just think they’re a weird loose hair on their face.”
Main image: Victoria Beckham Spring/Summer ’16, courtesy Victoria Beckham.