October 19, 2016
When we think about Thom Browne’s SS17 show, we just can’t help but immediately associate it with a heap ton of unzipping numbers to reveal yet another surprising ensemble underneath. The entire show was a deliberate orchestra of humour played into 60s sartorial pool fun.
Before we get too carried away with Browne’s brassy pieces, let’s touch the set, shall we? Thom Browne’s sets never ever disappoint, and are always as incredibly well-constructed as they are picturesque. Multicoloured mosaic tiles formed a mural of a disco-like poolside. The benches were lined with white towels. And there were men dressed as cats, dogs and parrots – in creepy a-la-Joker fur heads. We merely shook off our eminent fear and confusion for one reason; it was Thom Browne’s show. And so we sucked it up and took to really appreciating its cheeky rendition of a Stepford Wives pool party.
Allow us to narrate the flow of the show. First, models walked out in floral shower caps and beach robes, seemingly engaged in mindless gossip and chit chat. That’s before they took to formation and proceeded to disrobe, revealing what seemed to us to be entirely tailored looks. Upon doing a double take, we realised that they were one-piece garments, which utilised intrepid techniques of graphic lines, fabric mixing, and seam detailing to achieve that 3-D effect of donning separates. And so the preppy “jackets”, “tuxes” and “plaid shift dresses” – even down to the bowtie (what!) – were all just country club pastel illusions niftily crafted by a witty Thom Browne. Who would have guessed that shower caps were about to be donned the “coolest” fashion accessory for the upcoming season? Certainly not us. The too-school-for-cool looks were just about the right dose of quirky and smart for us to fall in love with them. We’re definitely smitten by the nerdy bowties, suits, and button ups.
Ok, and we’re not done! As if on cue, the models then stripped down further at the end of the show to reveal candy-striped bathing suits underneath. A model donning a silver reflective dress walked out, and the music was given an upbeat remix of – erm, duh? – disco. She stood centre stage, as her reflective headpiece reflected off the spotlight, entailing her as the disco ball of the “party”. This was precedent of the “pool party” as models started sitting down on the tiles to lounge by the “poolside”. Unexpected, hilarious and always had to be taken with a pinch of salt – now that’s what we call a classic Thom Browne show.
Cover image from Instagram @somewhereiwouldliketolive and @pploffashion.