Retinol: The Anti-Ageing Skincare Ingredient That's Really Not That Scary

Retinol. To some out there, this might be a scary word, one known for being thrown around in the world of potently anti-ageing skincare; basically, the stuff one should only try only if one has mature skin in serious need of some rescue. You might also have heard some skin experts warn of the potential irritation retinol can cause, so you might be led to think that if you have sensitive skin, don’t even think of going near retinol.
It’s kinda true – navigating retinol can be tricky. There are lots of myths and half-truths surrounding it, which has probably caused you to give this ingredient a wide berth. As we said, it’s tricky, but we’re going to try to make things a little less murky anyway.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, which sometimes also comes in the form of retinoic acid (retinol is supposed to be the more effective form, though). Retinol is most commonly found in anti-aging skincare, due to its supposed ability to improve skin firmness and reduce the appearance of fine line and wrinkles. It breaks down when exposed to light, hence many products containing retinol are stored in opaque containers to maintain the efficacy of the product.
How does it work?
It affects the skin at a genetic level, changing the way skin cells behave to lead to a whole host of advantages such as increased collagen production (firmer skin!), better cell turnover rate (a brighter complexion!), and boosting the deeper layers of the skin (fewer wrinkles!). A common misconception is that it peels away the outermost layers of the skin, hence causing redness and sensitivity; that’s really just a side effect that might manifest for some, but not all. If the level of skin irritation is of a tolerable and not very visible level, stick it out and it will eventually go away, as the skin builds up its tolerance to the level of retinol you’ve been using. But of course, if it start getting painful, please stop the retinol.
Retinol products are available over-the-counter, even easily available in the drugstores, or via a prescription from the dermatologist. Of course, the stuff from your doctor is going to be a lot stronger (but it’ll also come with professional advice on how to use it properly); most of the stuff you can buy yourself will contain retinol in much less potent form.
Since retinol works at a cellular level, don’t expect immediate results. Experts say it’ll take about 3 months for improvements in the skin to become visible, so be patient.
 

Allies of Skin 1A Overnight Mask
$139, available on alliesofskin.com 
The retinol in this overnight moisturiser exists in the form of Ally-R, the brand’s own patented formulation that they say stabilises the retinol and avoids skin irritation.
 

Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex
$150, available at AsterSpring stores and authorised Dermalogica skin treatment centres
Since the eye area is the most prone to fine lines, it makes sense to use an eye cream with retinol. Here, the retinol is kept in microcapsules to maximise its potency, and deliver it deep into the skin’s layers.

Hada Labo Retinol Anti-Aging 3D Lotion
$25.90, available at Watsons and Guardian
Like the other Hada Labo products, this one contains a generous serving of hyaluronic acid; this version also has retinol to help with lifting and firming, plus hydrolysed collagen to have the skin feeling plump again.
 

REN Bio-Retinoid Anti-Ageing Concentrate Oil
$121, available at escentials
REN prides itself on using the all-natural stuff, so yes, even the retinol in this facial oil is nature-derived. Various forms of Vitamin A come from the Andean musk rose seed oil and the Arctic seabuckthorn berry fruit, while a retinoid analogue comes from something called the Brazilian White Beggar’s stick flower. The brand claims these will be less likely to irritate the skin compared to synthetic retinol.

Verso No. 9 Lip Serum, $90
Available at escentials
Your lips deserve retinol too. Isn’t it the part of your face with the potential to get the most number of fine lines, anyway? Verso’s the Swedish brand that uses a form of retinol named Retinol-8, that they claim is eight times more effective than regular retinol and only half as irritating to the skin. Bold claim, but some of their products have been proven to be quite visibly effective.