We’ve noticed it too, our favourite Marc by Marc Jacobs boutiques closed down recently. But that’s just because all their designs have been subsumed by the main line. Be rest assured, we’re still going to collect the latest Marc Jacobs accessories, and at prices we’ve always paid them for. In fact, the Marc Jacobs SS18 collection is launching at the Marc Jacobs Paragon Orchard Store, so we can’t wait for you to head down and enjoy first dips of his ready-to-wear collection and accessories. It doesn’t matter if you shop Marc Jacobs regularly or plan on investing in a first-time purchase, this collection should be your first — we can explain!
Marc Jacobs SS18 Ready-to-Wear at Park Avenue Armory
The Park Avenue Armory has a vast hall and is a familial space for Jacobs as he’s used the space in previous shows. For this show, guests were seated along the four walls of the room, casting a blank-slate mise en scène which was, frankly, existential. One by one models came clacking down the runway, with no music to illustrate the mood, only beads deafeningly swooshing and messing with the mic feeds of many a YouTube runway show coverage.
In a climate of inundation fashion, many established designers and fashion houses have taken to doing “greatest hits” collections, reimagining classic pieces for the modern consumer. Prada did it recently with their black nylon bags and vintage prints, Versace a season before commemorating the death of their father Gianni Versace, among others. For SS18, pride-and-joy of NYFW Marc Jacobs fearlessly cast a lineup of sportswear inspired gear to juxtapose old-lady garments and graphics, a hallmark of his design ethos. And it’s not like we don’t catch up with what the designer does, but perhaps this collection was sparked by Jacobs’ anger that the current zeitgeist seems to revolve around oversized silhouettes, ugly prints, trashy footwear, constricting headgear and athleticism… the man practically put those trends on the map!
For SS18, Jacobs cast a memory lane of his prolific career with icons of his design. We remember huge florals, comfy AF looking sandals, bags inspired by the gym made for the hangover-Saturday brunch spot and sequin tunics. Even for a new customer this collection looks like a blast from the past, much less the New York girl who’s sold on Jacobs’ interpretation of his city’s culture.
Which lands us right to his controversial turbans, which have reignited anger from those accusing him of appropriating black culture. For SS17 Jacobs put his girls in dreadlocks, which got a similar response, so it’s evident he’s no stranger to backlash. To take Jacobs’ side of the argument, these headpieces didn’t come out of nowhere. Working closely with milliner Stephen Jones, Jacobs reimagined his iconic turban for Kate Moss at the 2009 MET Gala. Despite the controversy we love them, they’re so out-the-shower luxe.
Moving on to the fanny packs we reckon will sell like hot cakes, or, in this case, hamburgers. They look pretty run of the mill (which is kind of the point), if not for their bright pops of complimentary dragonfruit pinks, citrus oranges and seaweed turquoise. And as though to associate himself as the top of the fashion food chain, Jacobs uses a hamburger insignia as a focal point of these festive bags.
Overall, the collection feels mature and majestic. We’re not sure those iconically Marc Jacobs daisy dresses will be within our price range. But a little accessory is nonetheless a great starting point into the brand, especially because of its significance to Jacobs himself.
Marc Jacobs SS18 Ready-to-Wear Finale
In the end, the models returned down the runway in a girl group of sorts, to an aria from 1981 French film Diva, a song which Jacobs commented, “Sometimes an aria is just an aria.” To the theatrically savvy perhaps the tune might hold significant meaning to them, but to a general audience the aria injected an austerity only worthy to be associated with someone as revered as Jacobs himself. It was certainly a grand finale and timely revisit of Jacobs’ extensive career, a note symbolising the end of a chapter and the beginning of the next.
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