There’s a bit of old world grace in CHANEL’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, dreamt up by Virginie Viard; she was inspired, in part, by Alain Resnais’ 1961 film, Last Year in Marienbad, along with the idea of freedom of movement, which explains bows on heels, feathers and sequins layered atop good old tweed, and flowy fabrics that grace the body.
Likened to a “free stroll through the fragments”, what we’re getting is a collage of the past and the present, where the sophisticated allure of the yesteryears is now done with CHANEL’s signature laidback ease — a vibe best embodied by campaign muse and house ambassador, Kristen Stewart.
“Kristen Stewart is the person who reminds me most of Gabrielle Chanel,” says Viard. “When I first met her in 2013, it was instant. I’ve always been fascinated by her face, her attitude… And she understands CHANEL clothing so well.” Whether in a raspberry pink tweed skirt suit, or in bow-topped shoes made edgy with fishnet detailing, she is a picture of effortless elegance, the kind of casualness we collectively yearn for.
Unveiled on the runway is also a whole new slew of bags and accessories, instantly recognisable thanks to house codes of quilted leather and familiar silhouettes, yet refreshed with new fabrications or new forms. Take the CHANEL 22 bag — its supple leather form now sees a mini size, updated with adjustable chain handles, as well as a long double chain and leather strap for crossbody wear.
Vanity cases arrive in pastel tweed and top handles, while a duo of heart-shaped clutches, in black and white, would make the cutest company when slung across the shoulder. The heart motif reappears on plush flap bags as metalwork surrounding the bags’ closures, while dark denim adorns the flap bag too, complete with rivets and denim-and-metal chains.
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Available now at CHANEL boutiques.
Runway photos: Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
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